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Almond Chocolate Chip Mandelbrot
Growing
up, the holiday season was always a little depressing for me. Even
though Jewish people have our own winter holiday, Hanukkah never really
seemed to be equivalent of Christmas and rightfully so, because, well,
it’s not. Like many Jewish holidays, though there was celebration, it
was also infused with that uniquely Jewish bittersweetness and sadness
in the storytelling around its history. This acceptance of the sadder
and darker moments that are an inevitable part of the full picture of
life may make for people who are more willing to accept the various
hurdles, disappointments and tragedies that life presents but as a
child, frankly, all I wanted from my holidays was cheer, comfort and
forgetting.
I have a bit of a confession. To my young mind, all you needed to be
safe and happy was to be born Christian. I know that is silly and naïve
but that was my sense growing up. The stories we were told in synagogue
were all about pain, suffering and just barely managing to overcome the
odds for survival. If I could just be Christian, maybe life would be
easier, maybe it would be more like life in the Brady household, where
the biggest thing to stress out over was living under Marcia or Greg’s
shadow. Hanukkah rather emphasized this divide to me: I imagined that
our Christian neighbors were enjoying gingerbread cookies and were lit
by Christmas trees as they did sing-alongs around the piano like
everyone just stepped out of Capra set. Meanwhile, we were spinning
dreidels for waxy chocolates and hearing about the Maccabees eventual
triumph over oppression. Let the good times roll!
Through
it all, though, I had my grandmother. (My grandfather was amazing, too,
but a quieter person so a less obvious influence.) My Grandma Dora will
likely always have the biggest influence on how I live my life and she
is especially on my mind this time of year when she made a difficult
time of year, when I felt isolated, sad and estranged, feel much more
bright and warm.
My grandmother was the sort of person strangers would smile at and even
when she was old and living in a senior care facility, the harried
nurses would make a point to smile at her. She was the anchor of our
family, a benevolent matriarch you couldn’t help but love with a big
smile, an earthy laugh and a true effervescence than bubbled over into
everything she did. When my mother and her siblings were growing up,
her home in Rogers Park was the gathering point for all of my
grandmother’s siblings, nieces, nephews and friends. She was assertive
but diplomatic, confident but never arrogant, and a lifelong flirt. I
could not ask for a better grandmother. She also happened to be an
amazing cook and baker, the kind of person who could make an ordinary
peanut butter and jelly sandwich taste more delicious than anyone
else’s. Or maybe that is just the part of the mystique I held her in.
Throughout a pretty unhappy childhood, my grandmother always made me
feel valued and protected, and my favorite memories were sitting at her
little kitchen table and helping her cook. I was her assistant, she
said. We would roll out the dough for rugelach, I would grate potatoes
for latkes, I would add the strawberry jam in the belly button of her
thumbprint cookies, and all the dark stuff in my own world, all the
sadness, would dissipate. Whether we were talking and laughing or just
working together silently, there was something about my grandmother and
her presence that was so deeply comforting. Covered in flour, my little
fingers numb from shredding, I couldn’t have felt more peaceful. To me,
perhaps that was what I thought Christians universally had. Peace. A
suspension of troubles and fears. That was what I had with my
grandparents.
Marla and Grandma Dora c.1995
My grandmother’s mandelbrot (which we called mandel bread, literally
almond bread) was, to my mind, her signature sweet treat. Not
specifically for any particular holiday, her mandelbrodt always showed
up where she went and was a rather simple but no less delicious slab of
a cookie that was sweet and crunchy with almonds. Is it possible for a
cookie to create a feeling of security? I’m not sure, but I do know
that everything crafted from her hands in her warm little kitchen had
that affect on me but perhaps her mandelbrodt achieved this most.
For those not familiar, mandelbrot is often referred to as “Jewish
biscotti,” though it’s a little more cookie-like, a little less dry.
Like biscotti, they are twice-baked cookies to create that satisfying
crunch, though, as “peasant food,” they are easy and inexpensive to
make. Last week, I was missing my grandmother again, which I always do
this time of year, and a voice inside me said, “Make mandelbrot.” I
was instantly comforted at the thought and set about trying to recreate
it.
I haven’t had mandelbrot in many years but these are reminiscent of my
grandmother’s, with the exception of adding chocolate chips (because
they make everything better) and adapting it as a gluten-free recipe,
because my grandma wouldn’t want my tummy to hurt.
Here’s to you, sweet Grandma Dora, and all the other beautiful souls
who lift us up with their mere presence and warmth. May we all be that
beacon of light to those who seek comfort in the world.
Almond Chocolate Chip Mandelbrot
2 tablespoons flaxseeds
6 tablespoons water
2 cups all-purpose gluten-free flour blend (I used Bob’s Red Mill All-Purpose Blend)
1 cup almond flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
2/3 cup coconut sugar or vegan dry sugar of your preference
2/3 cup slivered almonds
1 cup fair trade, non-dairy chocolate chips
½ cup plain, unsweetened non-dairy milk (I used almond)
½ cup neutral oil (I used safflower)
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
First,
make your flax “eggs.” Stir together your flaxseeds and water with a
fork or a mini-whisk and allow this to chill in the fridge for at least
15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees and line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat.
Toast the almonds in a small baking pan for five minutes, shake, and
toast another five minutes. Remove from the oven but leave it on. You
can pulse the almonds in a food processor to make them crumbly or add
as slivers to your dough.
Meanwhile,
whisk together the flours, cinnamon, xanthan gum, baking powder, sugar
and salt in a large bowl. In a medium bowl, stir together the flax
eggs, milk, oil, and extracts. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry
along with the almonds and chocolate chips. It will be sticky! If you
want to refrigerate to reduce the stickiness, through it in the fridge,
covered for an hour or so. Otherwise, proceed and be prepared for
sticky hands.
With wet hands, shape the dough into a log shape on prepared he baking sheet.
Bake for 40 minutes or so until the edges start to lightly brown.
Remove from the oven and allow it to cool for ten minutes. Then, using
a serrated knife, cut into uniform slices, about 1-inch wide. (I used
the knife straight up and down rather than in a sawing motion because I
thought that would keep it intact better.) On the same parchment-lined
cookie sheet, gently turn the pieces over so they are flat on one side
and bake for 10 minutes more or until cooked through and perfect.
Because the pieces are so big, I cut them in half at this point. Allow
to cool and enjoy!
©
2013, 2014, Vegan Street
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